Alleppey - Kerala, India

On to stop number two: Alleppey, a beach town at one end of Kerala’s backwaters.

We took the train down from Cochin, which was an experience in itself. It all started off well and we quickly purchased tickets for an express train for about 70 pence, but the train proceeded to pick up over an hour of delay between us buying the tickets and it arriving at the station so the journey took a little longer than expected.

However, we were able to pick up a curry and a coffee in the station food court for around a pound each then sit in an air conditioned waiting for 30p and so avoided waiting on the busy platforms in the intense midday heat.

On board the train it was relatively calm and we found some seats - the biggest shock (though perhaps not a surprise) was the locals throwing their litter out of the open window on to the tracks! Public bins are not a common sight here!

At each station along the way and during the journey, food and chai vendors work their way up and down the aisles selling biriyani, doughnuts, chai tea, coffee, cold drinks and crisps - there is never any need to go hungry in India when you have a few rupees in your pocket!

Alleppey is much smaller and noticeably quieter than Cochin - there don’t seem to be many foreign tourists around and locals believe that the November floods put a lot of people off their Kerala holiday plans. Alleppey was one of the towns worst hit by the floods, being surrounded by the backwaters (a network of canals) and we even met some locals on the beach who had lost their home and all their possessions, and their five year-old daughter had to be rescued by a family member, who swam out through the flood waters to save her.

Fortunately now the waters have receded and life is more or less back to normal. The water levels are still quite high but it’s winter here now, which is traditionally a much dryer season so hopefully there will be no further recurrences.

On arrival into Alleppey, we checked into our accommodation. Our host was a colourful character called Johnson for whom nothing was too much trouble to make our stay comfortable. We were given an upgraded room, had dinner cooked for us and sorted out our houseboat booking.

We wandered a few blocks down to the beach in the late afternoon; the locals like to congregate there at that time of day, once the heat of the midday sun has gone. 

We were more or less the only westerners on the beach and we soon began to attract quite a bit of interest - this must be what it’s like to be famous! First a group of five or so lads stopped to ask if they could have a selfie with us, then an older couple stopped to chat (and for a photo). We also spoke to a group of ladies who we decided to ask for a selfie for the blog!

Alleppey has a nice beach, albeit with a warning about swimming in the sea, but I couldn’t figure out if that’s because a lot of Indian children are not taught to swim at school or because it was dangerous. We did go for a wallow in the waves and the sea was so warm!

I had to make sure I covered up - both in and out of the water - as the Indian ladies were fully clothed on the beach - and in the sea, wading in but not swimming - and I didn’t want to cause offence or unnecessary stares by swimming in a bikini. 

The town centre is a colourful street  decorated with bunting and is busy with the usual tuktuk and motorbike traffic and honking horns. Although only a few blocks away from the beach, the hectic streets of the town feel like a different place.

After two nights in Johnson’s homestay accommodation, we booked on to his eco-houseboat and were lucky enough to have it all to ourselves, with our own private captain and chef.

It was beautiful and serene making our way through the backwaters and lakes, mooring up for meals and spotting birds on the wetlands. We saw eagles, kingfishers and storks whilst lounging on the boat, between reading and playing Yahtzee.

In the evening we moored at a jetty in an area busy with other boats. It was still very relaxing but with the hubbub of other boaters moored up for the night and passing boat traffic. Houseboat tourism is popular amongst Indian and foreign tourists alike.

We were on the water from midday to nine AM the following morning and our cabin looked directly out on to the water.

When back on dry land, we took a bus down to our next stop in Munroe Island. We’re heading inland from the other end of the backwaters at Kollam and staying in a rural village on Ashtamundi Lake for some peace and tranquility away from all the traffic, noise and beeping horns in the town. I’ll write again from there.

Cochin - Kerala, India

Because of our extensive travels last year, we’ve not travelled too far this year - it’s mainly been European city breaks and a week in Brittany - so we’re excited to be going on a ‘proper’ two-week jaunt to exotic climes!

I secretly used my air miles to upgrade Kev and I to business class for our flight to Delhi, so we could get some rest on the way and arrive fully refreshed, ready for our holiday; but in reality I think we were too excited and couldn’t sleep, despite having a flat bed on the plane. Still, it was nice to lie down instead of the usual cramped conditions.

On arrival we had a six-hour layover in Delhi before our onward flight to Cochin so we made ourself comfortable in an airport lounge for a shower and a nap, followed by coffee and some dinner before we departed. We were surprised to see Costa, WHSmith and Subway in the airport arrivals hall and didn’t feel so far from home after all!

The Air India plane to Cochin seemed to be falling apart with interiors that looked like they’d never been refitted since its inaugural flight in the 1980’s, but with a little faith in Air India’s Star Alliance membership and only a short distance to cover, we were safely delivered to Cochin International Airport, where a friendly taxi driver was waiting to take us to our first accommodation.

After twenty-four hours travelling we were ready to go straight to bed in our lovely air-conditioned room. Our Homestay was called “Kevin’s Placid Homestay” and our hosts asked if we chose it because of Kev’s name - yes and no I suppose, but it was very comfortable and a great location in the centre of town, in the area known as Fort Kochi.

On leaving London the temperature was a mild (for the UK) ten degrees, so we had to quickly readjust to the sticky 28 degrees at night and high humidity - but I think I’ll take that over the onset of the UK winter! We were very grateful for the very effective air conditioning in the room, however, despite Kev’s propensity to turn it off in the night when he inevitably gets cold!

Apparently the temperature here feels like a good ten degrees more than the actual temperature due to the humidity, so our comfortable 32 degrees in the day in fact felt more like 42, which is less comfortable!

In search of an opportunity to cool down, and making the most of Kerala’s reputation for Ayurveda, we went for an Ayurvedic massage in a nice air conditioned room. As a qualified massage therapist, I try to experience the different types of massage wherever I go in the world but I can’t say that Ayurvedic massage is for me - they basically poured what feels like a gallon of oil over me from a great height, starting with drenching my hair in it. The best part for me was definitely the shower at the end, though it took at least two showers to feel like I’d washed off all the oil! Kev had a slightly better experience, though whether that’s down to having a better therapist, or being less squeamish about being doused in oil, I’m not sure!

Continuing with our cultural immersion, we booked on to a Keralan cooking class in the following morning and soon realised that Indian cooking is something you learn over a lifetime as opposed to in a three-hour class! There are so many spices and rules about how much to use and the order in which you add them to the dish (in addition to the basics of which spices to use - and not use - for different food types).

We made four dishes: sambar, fish curry, anial and coconut chutney and after learning how to prepare them we sat down to a hearty lunch, which was delicious - all the more so for having cooked it ourselves!

In the afternoon we took a tuktuk to the Kerala folklore museum, where there are three floors of artifacts crammed into every nook and cranny of the building, with each floor displaying Muslim, colonial and Hindu influences respectively. It was interesting and very ornate but they could have done with a building five times the size to display all the exhibits and do them justice.

To round off our final day in Cochin we went to see a traditional Kathakali performance. An hour before the show starts the audience can watch the performers sat cross-legged on the stage, putting on their make-up; then follows an introduction and explanation of the art form, to help understand the meaning of the dance and in particular the facial movements, and then the show - an hour’s episode of what would traditionally be a performance of several hours that goes on all night! We were quite grateful for the abridged version, albeit a very touristy one and the show was fantastic.

On holiday and in a hot country it is customary for us to enjoy a cold beer, however Kerala is due to become a dry state, so the sale of alcohol is heavily regulated and restricted. It’s illegal to advertise alcohol and only a very few number of establishments are licensed to sell it - although they are always very busy with locals and tourists alike.

When enquiring about the nearest bar to get a beer one evening, an ex-pat Brit told us to ask for ‘special tea’ - namely beer served in a teapot and teacups to make it look like tea! We found a bar serving beer in the end and didn’t have to resort to speaking in a secret code but there’s definitely a ‘speakeasy’ vibe to alcohol vending establishments and they are few and far between.

Next we’re off down the coast to Alleppey, home to the beginning of the network of backwaters to spend some time on a houseboat. I’ll write again from there.

When in Rome…

It’s been at least three months since we got on a flight and went on holiday, so must be time to dust off the passports and scratch the travel itch again! It’s also time to escape the winter weather in London – despite a spring-like week, we have now been plunged back into the snow with another blast of cold from the east. I don’t know about you but I am definitely ready for some sunshine and double-digit temperatures now in London!

So off to Rome we went for a short three-night break to cram in some culture, relaxation and some of my favourite food!

Our home in Rome was across the river in Trastevere – so called because it is across ‘tras’ the river Tiber – or ‘Tevere’ in Italian. Trastevere is a lively, colourful and extremely busy neighbourhood, with tourists and locals mingling side by side. Home to hundreds of bars and restaurants we were spoilt for choice and the standard of food and drink was generally very high – as you might expect in Rome.

We ate huge pizzas, stretched thin and stone baked; handmade pasta with delicious carbonara and amatriciana sauces; crispy, deep-fried Roman artichoke and decadent homemade tiramisus. This is no place to visit if you’re watching your waistline, though perhaps the several miles we walked every day might begin to counter the calories as we took in the sights. Perhaps not!

Tiramisu

As an aside, did you know that carbonara doesn’t traditionally contain any cream – just eggs, bacon and parmesan? It seems odd that in the UK it is made with cream. In any case, the Italian version is SO much nicer. We even found a restaurant that specialises in carbonara (and other egg-based dishes) and sat at a table overlooking the kitchen as the chefs prepared our patsa dishes before our eyes. I had a black truffle carbonara and Kev opted for the prawns with citrus zest version – so good!

Carbonara

Even our breakfast pancakes that I whipped up every day from our little apartment we were staying in tasted somehow better than at home – probably due in part to the fresh ingredients and higher quality of flour, since so much Italian cuisine requires a high-grade flour. Anyway, I digress…

On to the historical and cultural sights – of which Rome boasts so many it’s almost overwhelming to read the guidebook! Surely we’d need a month in Rome if we were going to even begin to see everything!

We started with the Coliseum – perhaps Rome’s most famous, or most popular attraction – and understandably so. Battling through the crowds of tourists, the first glimpse of the epic coliseum is impressive and the mind boggles at how it was built without modern day machinery, just human labour. Coupled with the stories of the battles/entertainment that took place within its walls, it is a sight to behold and so richly steeped in history.

The Coliseum

Inside the Coliseum

We continued our stroll through the Forum, taking in the structures and other monuments of ancient Rome, heading via the elaborate Pantheon, up to the ornate Trevi Fountain (throw in a coin over your left shoulder and it means you will one day return to Rome) and down the Spanish Steps.

The Forum

The Pantheon

Next, on to the Vatican city – though we decided against joining the huge snaking queue to go inside, instead choosing to soak up the culture from the outside.

The Vatican

It’s easy to see why Rome is so well-loved, with its cobbled streets, beautiful churches and painted buildings – in equal parts decadent and ramshackle. You don’t need to look far to experience its charm as it’s visible on every street corner and down every alleyway in Central Rome.

We didn’t quite escape Northern Europe’s weather though – and used the torrential downpours and thunderstorms as an excuse to bar hop, sampling some of the delicious local craft beers and locally-produced wines between the showers. I imagine the city is an entirely different place in the forty-degree heat of the summer!

At last on our final day in the city, the sun shone and we enjoyed a day wandering around with the Colegates, who happened to be passing  on their way through Italy (next stop Sicily.) After a final history lesson, pizza and glass of wine in the sunshine, we headed back to the airport for our flight home, already hoping we can one day return.

The Colegates - photo courtesy of Caragh!

Perth and Western Australia Photos

Hong Kong and Macau Photos

Cartagena (part 2)

We decided to spend our last few days in Colombia in Cartagena, in a nice hotel with cold air conditioning and fast wifi. We even found one with a small pool on the roof, perfect to cool off and relax after wandering around in the heat of the city – and in need of a little bit of luxury for our last few days. Perhaps even more surprising was to find a hotel that even had a hot water shower, which is something of a rarity in Colombia!

As we counted down our final few days, we decided to take it easy and not schedule too much to do. We booked on to a free walk by tour of the old city run by a local volunteer, who showcased architecture, historical facts and culture over the course of the two-hour stroll through the city's walled old town.

Some of the fascinating facts we learned were:

-   There are twenty-nine bank holidays per year in Colombia!

-   Every year there is a competition in the old town and the house judged most attractive doesn't have to pay any taxes (as an incentive for all the colonial-style houses within the city walls to keep up appearances)

Old colonial style house in Cartagena's old town

We also paid a visit to the crypt, part of the old Santa Clara Convent - which is now inside one of Cartagena's most premium hotels. The hotel agreed to keep the crypt intact and to allow public access after the story piqued public interest: when the crypt was excavated, a skeleton with long locks of copper coloured hair was uncovered inside, her hair having continued to grow for 200 years’ after her death. The story was originally featured in Gabriel García Márquez’ work, "Of Love and Other Demons," a tale which blurs fact and fiction and is based on this legend.

Famous Medellin painter and sculptor, Fernando Botero, known for his (often satirical) artworks featuring grotesquely large and exaggerated people and figures (including his take on the Mona Lisa) has one of his statues in the main square to commemorate him. It is said if you touch one breast, you'll come back to Cartagena in a year; touch both and you'll come back in two years. Touch her fat tummy and it is said to bring good luck!

 

Fernando Botero sculpture

Botero's Mona Lisa

We stumbled across some amazing - and highly energetic dancing throughout the city. This traditional Caribbean-Colombian "Mapale" dancing accompanied by fast-paced drumming and clarinet represents an erotic courtship between a man and a woman. It was introduced by African slaves brought to Colombia in a Spanish ships. The movements are said to be based on the movements of the mapale fish when they are out of water.

 

Leaving Colombia, we flew back to Mexico for two nights in Isla Mujeres before our long flight back to London. Two days on the beautiful Playa Norte was enough to make us want to stay longer and continue our travels - but no such luck: reality is ready to resume in London; jobs to be found and money to be earned!

 

Blue skies on Isla Mujeres seafront