Thursday, 24 August 2017
Tuesday, 20 June 2017
Cartagena (part 2)
We decided to spend our last few days in Colombia in
Cartagena, in a nice hotel with cold air conditioning and fast wifi. We even
found one with a small pool on the roof, perfect to cool off and relax after
wandering around in the heat of the city – and in need of a little bit of
luxury for our last few days. Perhaps even more surprising was to find a hotel
that even had a hot water shower, which is something of a rarity in Colombia!
As we counted down our final few days, we decided to take
it easy and not schedule too much to do. We booked on to a free walk by tour of the old city run
by a local volunteer, who showcased architecture, historical facts and culture
over the course of the two-hour stroll through the city's walled old town.
Some of the fascinating facts we learned were:
- There are twenty-nine bank holidays per year in
Colombia!
- Every year there is a competition in the old
town and the house judged most attractive doesn't have to pay any taxes (as an
incentive for all the colonial-style houses within the city walls to keep up
appearances)
Old colonial style house in Cartagena's old town |
We also paid a visit to the crypt, part of the old Santa
Clara Convent - which is now inside one of Cartagena's most premium hotels. The
hotel agreed to keep the crypt intact and to allow public access after the
story piqued public interest: when the crypt was excavated, a skeleton with long
locks of copper coloured hair was uncovered inside, her hair having continued
to grow for 200 years’ after her death. The story was originally featured in Gabriel
García Márquez’ work, "Of Love and Other Demons," a tale which blurs
fact and fiction and is based on this legend.
Famous Medellin painter and sculptor, Fernando Botero, known
for his (often satirical) artworks featuring grotesquely large and exaggerated
people and figures (including his take on the Mona Lisa) has one of his statues
in the main square to commemorate him. It is said if you touch one breast,
you'll come back to Cartagena in a year; touch both and you'll come back in two
years. Touch her fat tummy and it is said to bring good luck!
Fernando Botero sculpture |
Botero's Mona Lisa |
We stumbled across some amazing - and highly energetic
dancing throughout the city. This traditional Caribbean-Colombian
"Mapale" dancing accompanied by fast-paced drumming and clarinet
represents an erotic courtship between a man and a woman. It was introduced by
African slaves brought to Colombia in a Spanish ships. The movements are said
to be based on the movements of the mapale fish when they are out of water.
Leaving Colombia, we flew back to Mexico for two nights
in Isla Mujeres before our long flight back to London. Two days on the
beautiful Playa Norte was enough to make us want to stay longer and continue
our travels - but no such luck: reality is ready to resume in London; jobs to be
found and money to be earned!
Blue skies on Isla Mujeres seafront |
Labels:
Botero,
Cartagena,
Colombia,
dancing,
Garcia Marquez,
isla mujeres,
mapale,
mexico
Sunday, 21 May 2017
Palomino
The next stop on our itinerary was Palomino, a small town
on the Caribbean coast with a lovely beach and laid back vibe.
The beach goes on for miles, but you're not supposed to
swim due to strong offshore currents, however, we arrived to find around fifty
people in the sea - all fine. So, we took the advice with a pinch of salt, only
went in to waist deep and after the waves had broken. It’s too hot to not cool
off!
We were glad we decided against the option of hiring a
hammock and mosquito net and staying over in the park – it seemed a fairly horrific
experience – though one that Hannah apparently enjoyed when she visited a few
years ago! Perhaps as we approach the end of our trip the travel fatigue is
setting in and we need our home comforts!
Palomino beach |
Miles of beach in Palomino |
There was glorious sunshine every morning, and we even
had a view of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains from the bottom of the
garden in our accommodation.
It's hard to believe that it's possible to see
snow up there when we were stood melting down at sea level, in extremely high
heat and humidity! It's apparently the highest peak in Colombia and you can just about make out the snowy peaks in my photo:
The snow capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in the distance |
In the afternoon, the sunshine would eventually give way
to thunderstorms and torrential rain and the occasional power cut.
The main mud road of the town is characterised by several large puddles that fill the entire road, so it takes some time to get anywhere, picking your way around the puddles.
The main mud road of the town is characterised by several large puddles that fill the entire road, so it takes some time to get anywhere, picking your way around the puddles.
When it rains, we were recommended to just
go out barefoot to avoid the issue of soaking your trainers or losing a flip
flop in the mud!
We went 'tubing' down the river one day – a much more
sedate affair than in Laos – just floating down the river in a giant inner tube,
with views of the mountains, until we reached the sea. We just had to be sure
to get out before we floated out to sea!
Tubing in Palomino |
Getting to the start point however was a little hairier -
it basically involved getting on the back of a motorcycle taxi whilst carrying
our tubes!
All in all, Palomino was a lovely place to stay for a few
days. After four nights, we travelled down to Santa Marta, so we could do a day
trip into Tayrona National Park.
Once in the park, we embarked upon a six-mile hike along
the coast, which was tough as it was so hot and humid. It's also not possible
to swim on most of the beaches due to the strong currents and big waves so we
had to wait a while before we could cool off.
Tayrona National Park |
Most of the park has well organised trails with
boardwalks, but parts of the track are very muddy and we had to wade across
three shallow rivers in some parts – I think probably due to the heavy rain
that has been falling.
Rough seas in Tayrona Park |
After two hours of hiking, we eventually reached
Arricefes and there's a beach nearby where we could finally swim in a sheltered
bay – where cooling off was much appreciated. The park is stunning – wild beaches, huge boulders and big waves. Well worth the strenuous hiking effort.
Huge boulder cracked in half |
We are now down to our final week – how time flies! First
we’ll head back to Cartagena for a few days, then we fly to Mexico in
preparation for our flight back to London.
Tune in again next week for the final instalment of the
blog (well, for this trip anyway!)
Labels:
beaches,
boulders,
Caribbean,
Coast,
Colombia,
hiking,
mountains,
Palomino,
Sierra Nevada,
Tayrona,
tubing
Tuesday, 16 May 2017
Cartagena
Cartagena is a beautiful, well-preserved old town
surrounded by tall city walls. Much like other old Spanish colonial centres,
it has a really European feel – both architecturally and
culturally – and within the city walls, there were even horse and carts (like we saw in Seville, Spain
and also in Merida, Mexico) ferrying the tourists around.
Outside of the old town it’s a different story: the
chaotic suburbs descend into traffic mayhem, diesel fumes and an urban sprawl
where all Cartagena’s residents live. It was quite a contrast travelling in
from the noisy suburban bus station outside of town, into the colourful centre
of the old town. Needless to say we stuck to the centre of town once we’d
arrived!
All the doors in the old town are much taller than
standard doors as when the city was built, people used to enter buildings on
horseback, so the added height is to cater for the horse and rider.
Gate to the old town |
Wandering around the narrow streets |
The city walls are filled with narrow streets, colourful
buildings, brightly painted street art and big shady squares. It’s incredibly
hot and humid so we were grateful for the cold air conditioning in our hotel
room – the first we’ve had in a while and feels like a real treat!
View from the city walls |
The best itinerary in Cartagena is to drop all
sightseeing plans and get lost wandering around the streets of the old town. We
walked miles in the shady streets, popping into shops and cafes for a Colombian
coffee and some air conditioning, and strolling along sections of the city walls, taking
in the city views.
City walls and sailing boat |
Strolling around the walls |
People’s homes also used to be marked with a symbol if
they were one of certain occupations – usually the door knocker is in the shape
of one of the following animals to represent the following professions:
- Lion – works for the king
- Iguana – rich/noble people
- Owl – doctor
- Mermaid – Sailor
- Dolphin – Fisherman
A rich person used to live here... |
We stayed in Getsemani, a ten-minute walk outside the centre
and a popular location for backpackers. It’s a vibrant area with lots of great
bars and cafes and generally the standard of food here is really good. We found
a lovely café for breakfast with three resident cats, which serves the best
banana pancakes (even better than mine!)
Street art in Getsemani |
We’ll return to Cartagena in a week or so, ready for our
flight back to Cancun before we fly home, but in the meantime, we decided to
explore some more of the Caribbean coast and headed north to Minca in the Sierra
Nevada mountains.
Minca, in the mountains |
We spent a couple of nights there and did a spot of
hiking to nearby ‘Pozo Azul’ waterfall for a swim, but our day’s adventure got
prematurely cut short when the heavens opened and we got soaked through. So
much for 100% waterproof Goretex shoes if they get so full of water that you’re
squelching around in them!
Soaking wet! |
After a brief stop in Minca, we’re now in Palomino and I’ll
fill you in on our adventures here in the next blog post.
Labels:
Cartagena,
city walls,
coffee,
Colombia,
getsemani,
minca,
old town,
pozo Azul,
street art,
waterfall
Tuesday, 9 May 2017
Medellin
So, on to country number ten! After two changes of plane
in Panama City (one stopover, one broken engine cover) we landed in Medellin.
Known as the City of Eternal Spring, for it’s cool climate – so we were able to
enjoy a few days away from the heat and humidity of the Caribbean coast of
Costa Rica – though that said, it was a
different kind of humidity in Medellin as rainy season has just begun in
Colombia, so we had some heavy rain and thunder storms most days.
The ramshackle brick houses atop one another climb up the
hill, in a very densely populated neighbourhood. Where once the close proximity
of the houses meant gang-members could make a quick get-away (it is said there
are secret passageways between some of the houses to facilitate an easy escape),
then are now painted brightly with street art and a series of escalators run up
through the comuna and the streets are filled with enterprising locals selling
empanadas and mango ice cream, and tourists taking photographs against the
colourful backdrop.
We had an alternative view of Comuna 13 when we took a
cable car over the city to Park Arvi, where we planned to do some walking,
however, it started raining heavily pretty much as soon as we got out, so we
stopped for a craft beer and a game of chess at the top then jumped back on the cable car back down as
it looked like the thunder storm and rain was about to settle in for the
afternoon.
There’s a great foodie scene in Medellin, along with some great local and national beers, which we are gradually working our way through! Favourite so far include Club Colombia, Chapinero Porter from the BBC Bogota Beer Co. and Medellin brewed ‘3 Cordilleras Sweet Stout’.
Next, we are on our way to Cartagena, via Tolu and the
Islas San Bernardos, an archipelago of ten islands in the Caribbean Sea, including
Santa Cruz del Islote, the most densely populated island on Earth – every part
of the tiny island is covered by houses.
Medellin is probably most famous for being home to the
late Pablo Escobar, renowned drug-lord and dictator. Unfortunately, the recent
‘Narcos’ series on Netflix has glamorised Escobar’s life, which the local
people are unhappy about as he brought about a lot of suffering, including
kidnappings, murders on the streets of Medellin.
We went on a Pablo Escobar and City tour with Fede, the
owner of our hostel, born and raised in Medellin, and who experienced
first-hand life under the rule of Escobar.
Pablo in prison |
Fede was friends with Pablo Escobar’s
son at school and so spent time in his family home. Unrelated to this, he was
later kidnapped by FARC (Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia) Guerillas,
held hostage for 17 hours, beaten and released only when his family paid the
ransom.
Fede took us to Escobar’s first family home in Medellin,
the prison that was both built by and housed Escobar and the house in which he
was later shot (apparently by the Colombian Police, though many believe he
killed himself before the police could get to him).
The view from the prison was stunning – essentially affording
Escobar a view over all of Medeillin – and despite being locked up, he could
see exactly what was going on with views over the airports and oversee his
business still being run.
View from Pablo Escobar's prison cell |
On the tour, we also visited Barrio Antioquia, famous for
being the dodgy suburb, next to a very well-to-do suburb – and one that the
police won’t go in to.
Fede drove us through the neighbourhood pointing out to
us who was selling the drugs, as well as the ‘watchers’ on every corner, checking
for suspicious activity, unknown vehicles and so on… We even saw someone
indiscreetly handing over a roll of banknotes in exchange for drugs in broad
daylight. Fortunately, we viewed all this from the safety of the car and didn’t
stay for long!
Lastly, we went to Comuna 13 - once Medellin’s most dangerous neighbourhood,
now transformed into a vibrant and colourful district, where local residents
are no longer afraid to leave their homes – and it’s a destination for tourists
alike.
Comuna 13 Colourful Comuna 13 |
Kev posing by the street art in Comuna 13 |
There’s a great foodie scene in Medellin, along with some great local and national beers, which we are gradually working our way through! Favourite so far include Club Colombia, Chapinero Porter from the BBC Bogota Beer Co. and Medellin brewed ‘3 Cordilleras Sweet Stout’.
Live from the BBC (Bogota Beer Co) |
Santa Cruz del Islote |
We made a stop on Tintipan and spent the afternoon on the
beach, but unfortunately it meant for sand-fly bites for Kev!
Isla Tintipan |
I’ll write again from Cartagena.
Labels:
barrio Antioquia,
Colombia,
comuna 13,
craft beer,
escobar,
foodie,
islas san bernardos,
Medellin,
narcos,
porter,
santa cruz del islote,
street art,
tintipan
Saturday, 29 April 2017
Bocas Del Toro
It was a long journey over two days to get from Montezuma
to Puerto Viejo, travelling via the capital, San Jose. Considering Costa Rica
is a fairly well-developed country with a decent standard of living, it is
surprising the condition of the roads, many of which are unsealed, pot-holed
and require a four by four to get around. Even our accommodation in Montezuma
advised leg one of the journey to San Jose would take three hours, where it in
fact took seven! Still, we’re not in any kind of rush, so no problem there.
Puerto Viejo is on the Caribbean Coast, to which there’s
a really different vibe to the Pacific Coast. In addition to the local Costa
Ricans (Ticos, as they like to call themselves) there are also local Caribbean
people, speaking in their own Creole dialect and serving up ‘rice and beans’
and other Caribbean food in their restaurants.
There’s a jungle path to walk between the Playa Negra and
Playa Cocles and on the way, we saw three sloths in the trees! The first two
were sleeping as we spotted them during the day, but we saw the third one at
dusk and he’d just woken up and was having his dinner (breakfast?) Please
forgive the terrible photo – I really tested the limits of my camera in the
fading light and zooming right in. Still, you can still make out that
it’s a sloth and at least it wasn’t moving too fast to photograph!
So, we took a boat back over to the main island and stayed in Bocas town, which was perfect for us.
All the nice beaches are a short boat, or bus ride away and the town has the best food options as well – though to be honest the standard of food is nowhere near what it was in, say, Mexico!
The island was also home to some small crabs with one
claw as big as their whole body – I thought it was interesting how some were
right and some were left-handed (or clawed!)
After another day in Bocas, we’re heading back to San
Jose via Puerto Viejo for two nights to break up the journey. Then on Wednesday
we fly to Colombia for the final leg of our journey – I will write again from
there.
We arrived in San Jose to torrential rain, thunder storms
and a power cut – it was actually a welcome relief to the high temperatures and
humidity in Montezuma! Our accommodation had a view over Poas volcano, which
had a small eruption a couple of weeks ago – just a bit of gas and smoke – but we
were relieved to pass through without further incident as the area was on alert
for a while, in case of further eruptions.
As we travelled through Monteverde and Montezuma, we kept
meeting people headed from or to Bocas Del Toro, Panama (on the border with
Costa Rica) – to the point where we wondered what we were missing. Upon a
little research, we decided that too we should amend our itinerary (which was
pretty open) to spend a week there and add another stamp to our passports…
So, we hopped on a bus to Puerto Viejo (a journey which
actually took its designated travel time of five hours and not the usual
seven!), the jumping off point for Bocas Del Toro.
Puerto Viejo is a backpacker destination in its own
right, however – a very laid back atmosphere, miles of coastline, nice beaches,
good surf and hot weather.Puerto Viejo - Playa Cocles |
We stayed near Playa Negra, where the sand is black
(burning the soles of your feet as you run down to the sea) and two kilometres
away there’s Playa Cocles, a long stretch of white sand, good surf and nice for
swimming.
Surfboards on Playa Cocles |
Sloth! |
After a few nights in Puerto Viejo, we took the shuttle
over the border into Panama and then the boat into Bocas del Toro.
Bocas Del Toro is a chain of islands and we chose Isla Bastimentos
for our first stop, as it seemed a bit quieter with nice beaches. It's really picturesque with wooden houses built on stilts over the sea.
Isla Bastimentos |
However, we decided to move to a different island after one night due to there being no running water on the island because of a water shortage.
We were allowed to have a short shower from the tank, but basically had to ask the hotel management for permission to use the water. Now, the weather app on my phone told me the humidity levels were at 92% at one point, which makes the 32 degree temperatures feel so much hotter, so you don't feel clean for long – and we decided we just couldn’t live without running water. What divas we are! So, we took a boat back over to the main island and stayed in Bocas town, which was perfect for us.
All the nice beaches are a short boat, or bus ride away and the town has the best food options as well – though to be honest the standard of food is nowhere near what it was in, say, Mexico!
The closest beach, on Isla Carenero, was idyllic with
calm turquoise water, white sand, palm trees and a restaurant with decking out over
the seas that served the best pina coladas. After a couple of visits there,
however, Kev learned the hard way that there are also sand flies, which made a meal
out him. Astonishingly, they went for Kev and not me – it is usually the other
way around! At last count, Kev had over a hundred bites and is currently being
driven to distraction by the itching…
Isla Carenero |
Left and right-handed crabs! |
Fortunately, we also visited some other lovely beaches
without sand flies: Bocas del Drago, which leads on to Playa Estrella is home
to hundreds of orange starfish, which you can see with a snorkel, just a few
feet from the shore. I saw around thirty of them in as many metres, whilst swimming
along the shore.
Bocas Del Drago |
Starfish at Playa Estrella |
I also thought I’d share with you the famous Costa Rican
(and Panamanian, evidently) ‘suicide shower’ – so called because there is an
un-earthed heating element in the shower head itself and you are advised not to
touch the shower head with wet hands - for obvious
reasons! This is a particularly fine example of one in our guest house, complete with gaffer tape
and a piece of string holding it up! (Note: the accommodation also had a cold-water
shower which we preferred to use!)
The famous suicide shower! |
Labels:
bastimentos,
beaches,
boats,
bocas del toro,
carenero,
costa rica,
islands,
panama,
playa cocles,
playa negra,
Puerto Viejo,
sloths,
volcano
Friday, 21 April 2017
Montezuma
We've spent a lovely week on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica in Montezuma. The cool temperatures we experienced in Monteverde have been replaced with thirty-five degrees, sunshine and high humidity, so it was a bit of an adjustment to make but lovely to be back on the beach again.
Montezuma beach |
Montezuma is a lovely, laid back town with a similar vibe to, say, Zipolite in Mexico - lots of people arrive and never leave - and it's easy to see why: endless beautiful beaches fringed by jungle and excellent surf (not that we take advantage of it but it's fun to watch the waves crashing on to the shore!)
Another Montezuma beach |
We arrived during Easter week (Semana Santa), which happens to be the busiest week of the year for holidays in Costa Rica - and everyone heads out of the city to the coast.
Only booking our accommodation the day before we arrived, we were lucky to find somewhere to stay at all, but fortunately we found a real gem of a place: set amongst a mango orchard and backing on to jungle, but just two hundred metres to the town and beach.
I reckon the locals outnumbered the tourists ten to one, but on Easter Sunday everyone went home and the town was suddenly deserted.
Practising handstands on the beach |
One morning we had a particularly loud wake up call at 5am, where there must have been at least twenty of them up there - it was so loud and sounded quite ferocious!
The mangoes were so plentiful that the monkeys would pick one, take a couple of bites and then drop it (where it would hit the roof of our chalet with a loud thud!) if the monkeys cries don't wake you the sound of falling fruit will!
In addition to the howler monkeys in the trees over breakfast, we also watched white-faced monkeys in the trees and on the beach foraging for food. They are much less tame than the long-tailed macaques in Asia and weren't trying to steal anything from our bags.
They got quite close to us on the beach - or rather we were sat quite close to the trees they were foraging in, but didn't seem interested in us, which was a relief!
The end of our week saw the first rain of the year - an hour's torrential downpour. We had luckily left the beach by then and made it to shelter of a restaurant for dinner.
They got quite close to us on the beach - or rather we were sat quite close to the trees they were foraging in, but didn't seem interested in us, which was a relief!
White-faced monkeys |
Bizarrely, the rain awakened thousands of red crabs and the next day as we walked the jungle trail to Playa Grande, all we could hear besides the surf and the cicadas was the sound of crabs scuttling through the leaves.
Crabs! |
As we went to leave the beach later in the day, there were hundreds of them gathering at the entrance to the beach and at the shore, presumably ready to make their way down to the sea. Each crab about the size of my hand with distinctive orange legs, purple claws and black back.
Hundreds of crabs! |
Back at our accommodation in the evening we even found crabs scurrying around on the steps leading up to and outside our room on the patio! Sadly, there were also lots of them squashed on the road.
I have no idea where they all came from, but the town was all of a sudden crawling with them! During dinner we watched as a couple of them stealthily crept into the restaurant, sneaking into a dark corner. I'm not sure if they were looking for food, or the ocean, but the locals didn't seem to be bothered by them.
I have no idea where they all came from, but the town was all of a sudden crawling with them! During dinner we watched as a couple of them stealthily crept into the restaurant, sneaking into a dark corner. I'm not sure if they were looking for food, or the ocean, but the locals didn't seem to be bothered by them.
The rain also brought out the bugs in their various forms: mosquitoes, flying ants and other unidentifiable insects. I was thinking earlier in the week that there weren't many bugs around considering we were in the hot and humid jungle. Well, here they are now!
As an interesting aside, we have noticed how sand castles vary around the world: in Thailand they build sand temples, in Mexico they build sand (Mayan) pyramids and in Costa Rica they build sand volcanoes! It makes sense but I never thought of sand castles as being a particularly British thing!
Next, we're crossing over to the other side of the country, to Puerto Viejo on the Caribbean coast, by the border with Panama. This region is the home of Chiquita bananas, so think of us next time you're buying your bananas in the supermarket!
I'll write again next week.
Pura vida! (as they say in Costa Rica)
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